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A small waterfall and deep green lagoon hidden in the Asseca valley, a ten minute drive inland from Tavira. Fed by the Ribeira da Asseca, the falls drop over an ochre limestone ledge into a pool that local legend swears is bottomless. Generations of Tavira families learned to swim here, and on summer evenings you will still find people picnicking on the rocks while teenagers dare each other off the lower ledges. Wildfires and storms have battered the old walkways over the years, so the setting is rougher than the postcard suggests, which is exactly why it stays quiet. Park by the lane above Santo Estêvão and walk the last stretch down; go on a weekday morning for the clearest water, and carry your rubbish out.
A pink Rococo revival palace above Faro whose terraced gardens, azulejos and orange trees feel made for slow afternoons. The Palácio de Estói was a nineteenth century nobleman's fantasy and is now a pousada, but the gardens remain open to visitors and are the real prize: balustraded terraces, blue and white azulejo panels, statues, palms and a fountain stair that catches the light at dusk. It sits just off Estói's village square, so you can pair it with coffee at a local café or with the Roman ruins at Milreu, ten minutes away on foot. Weekday mornings outside holiday season are near silent. Enter through the garden gate rather than the hotel reception and take the terraces from the bottom up for the best reveal.
The ruins of a grand Roman villa at Estói, complete with fish mosaics and a temple that later became a church. Milreu was a luxury estate from the first to the fourth century, and what survives is remarkably legible: bathhouse walls with dolphin and fish mosaics, olive presses, and the tall podium temple that early Christians later converted, one of the few of its kind in Portugal. Interpretive panels are decent and the site rarely draws more than a handful of visitors at a time, so you can take it slowly under the trees while the rural setting drives home how comfortable Roman country life was. Pair it with the palace gardens up the road in Estói; the walk between the two takes about ten minutes.
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Yellow Star Company stages Andrew Lloyd Webber's Evita at Teatro das Figuras, three nights only.
Moçoilas live in Pereiro for the Alcoutim ComVida summer series, 10 pm.
Weekly colour parties with free colour shots, face painting and giveaways every Friday at Matt's Bar in Albufeira, July to September.
by Matt's Bar
"Soul Powerhouse" brings us a very special guest from London, Florelie Escano, an Australian singer... what a small world! Florelie is one of the richest voices in the United Kingdom, and she is comin