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Three free nights of jazz in Tavira's Praca da Republica, from a fado tinged quintet to a big band and an accordion led trio.
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Jazz em Tavira returns to the Praca da Republica for three consecutive nights as the opening music strand of the town's Verao em Tavira programme. Each concert starts at 10pm and admission is free. Friday 17 July brings the Rodrigo Correia Quinteto, blending jazz, pop, fado and African influences around the bassist's own compositions. On Saturday the Orquestra de Jazz de Leiria, a big band founded in 2011, joins singer Paula Oliveira for a set that runs from jazz standards to contemporary arrangements. The cycle closes on Sunday with accordionist Joao Frade and his project Eu.Clides, crossing folk, jazz and Mediterranean traditions. It is a compact, walkable way to catch three very different jazz acts in one square over one weekend, with the historic riverside town as a backdrop.
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A small waterfall and deep green lagoon hidden in the Asseca valley, a ten minute drive inland from Tavira. Fed by the Ribeira da Asseca, the falls drop over an ochre limestone ledge into a pool that local legend swears is bottomless. Generations of Tavira families learned to swim here, and on summer evenings you will still find people picnicking on the rocks while teenagers dare each other off the lower ledges. Wildfires and storms have battered the old walkways over the years, so the setting is rougher than the postcard suggests, which is exactly why it stays quiet. Park by the lane above Santo Estêvão and walk the last stretch down; go on a weekday morning for the clearest water, and carry your rubbish out.
A tiny whitewashed hamlet above a lagoon where, at low tide, locals wade across to an empty white sandbar. Cacela Velha is barely a dozen houses, a church and an old fort on a bluff at the eastern end of the Ria Formosa. The magic is below: when the tide drops, the lagoon empties to warm shallows and you can walk out to a long ribbon of white sand with clear Atlantic water on the far side. Oysters are farmed in the channels, and the view from the churchyard wall is one of the finest in the east Algarve. Park at Fábrica or above the hamlet, check the tide table before you go, and carry everything you need, as the sandbar has no shade or facilities.
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